Creating Shisha - The Tobacco

My real appreciation of hookah has come down to tobacco.  When I first started smoking shisha, I loved the big fruity flavors, the classic double apple, and the massive clouds.  Somewhere along the line that took an abrupt turn and I find myself smoking unflavored shisha 75% of the time.  This led me to the idea that instead of taking a semi-flavorless tobacco and giving it different flavors, why not make a variety of tobaccos with the intent of experiencing the nuances of the leaf itself.

That's not to say that I don't still love my flavors.  Two of my favorites that I make are a banana/clove blend and a peppermint/blueberry blend.  I smoke them all the time and I love the experience.  And I'm also still addicted to Al Fakher's Double Apple with Mint.

But for me, the leaf is where it's at.  Here are a few that we use to make our shisha.  Each has their very own personality, look, and feel.  Each requires a different cut based on the build of the leaf which makes for its own challenge.  But the enjoyment is in the ritual, yes?

Canadian Virginia Flue Cured

The mainstay tobacco that we use for our flavored blends is the Virginia Flue Cured.  Light in color and light in flavor, it is a perfect leaf for flavoring.  And luckily it is one of the easier leafs to cut.  Being that everything we do is hand-cut, the process is very time consuming and tough on the hands.  Also known as Brightleaf Tobacco, it is a very smooth smoke.

The cut that we put on this leaf is done by rolling the tobacco into a bunch and cross cutting the roll.  This makes for a long, thick shisha leaf and gives a great amount of surface area for flavor to hold on to.  We are also able to separate the stems very cleanly from this leaf, so what you get is a 99% stem free shisha with a nice even cut.

American Virginia Flue Cured


Much fuller and richer in flavor that the Canadian Flue Cured, the American Virginia Flue Cured has a lot more depth and seemingly a greater buzz than the Canadian.  This is also a drier leaf with smaller stems that are reasonably usable and cut for the blend.  This makes for a different texture in the package than the Canadian.

The cut is also made slightly different because with the drier nature of the leaf, the cuts tend to be much smaller and random than that of the Canadian blends.  It also makes for a drier feel in the hands when being packed.

We only use the American VFC for unflavored blends.  It is a 100% natural Gallberry honey blend that we buy at a local farm.  When burning this blend, you can also get a beautiful whisp of the honey burning on the aroma.  The richness of the leaf is perfect for the light and flavorful honey mix as the two make a combination that is unmistakable once you've had a few bowls of it.

Connecticut Broad Leaf 

This is a big-punch leaf.  A very strong, but smooth and very flavorful leaf.  This is one that you don't want to smoke on for too long. lest you have a massive buzz.

A very elastic leaf, this one.  When we cut it, it takes much more effort and the leaf wants to bind up.  Not that it's not worth it.  This leaf is used in making the Magdy Louis blend, which is named after a man who I greatly respect.

This leaf is also special to me for another reason.  The punch this one packs, coupled with the massive flavor it throws off reminds me of smoking the difficult-to-find Tombac while I was in Egypt.  The Tombac was a man's-man smoke and I wanted to replicate that as closely as I could with this leaf.    Trying to replicate that experience requires a lot of heft.  Therefore, we make the Magdy Louis with 100% molasses and leave the honey out.  The rich molasses flavor is the only thing that can stand up to this big leaf and I must suggest smoking this blend with the same care as when smoking Tombac.  I woould recommend short, light puffs on this one as opposed to the big shisha drags you're probably used to.

Brazilian Habano Viso

This is a new leaf for us.  I have one pound sitting waiting for a glycerine injection as we speak.  I'm pretty excited about this leaf as everything I've read leads to me thinking that it is going to be very flavorful.  On this run, I am just blending it with Gallberry honey to see the nature of what the lead provides. It is also a very expensive tobacco, making the prospect somewhat nerve-racking.

When I received the leaf, the aroma was jumping out of the bag.  Described by experts as having a leathery, chocolaty, peppery aroma, I could definitely see the leather before I even opened the bag.  The texture on the leaf was also leathery and very easy to cut, with the perfect level of moisture for our needs.  

This particular leaf is apparently native to Cuba, but the seeds for this blend were planted and grown in Brazil.  From what I have read, it still keeps much of the characteristic of its Cuban cousin.

When we do get a good clutch on what this leaf is all about, I suspect it's going to be a candidate for a honey blend, but I'm leaning toward an orange blossom honey, which is also harvested 100% natural and local to me.  The flavors sound like they'd be a nice match, so this month of curing is going to see exceptionally long.
If there are any questions in reference to our leaves or what is used in which blends, feel free to ask.  We will also be moving into some more exotic leaves as time goes by to get deeper into the idea of unflavored shisha production.  Cheers to all of you and happy smoking!


 























  

Pittsburgh - Sports Town U.S.A.

Having just spent what I affectionately called The Ultimate Sports Weekend in Pittsburgh, I started asking myself if there is a better town to love sports in than this one.  I discussed this with my wife and we came up with a few great sports towns - New York, Boston, Chicago, to name a few.  Then we started talking about a few of the things that this small market town has over all others.  In the end, there is no denying that Pittsburgh is Numero Uno.

I came up with ten, because ten is a nice round number.  Truth is, I could have come up with thirteen or fourteen, but what a strange look that would be.  Ten clear reasons why Pittsburgh is unbeatable, and here they are:

10.  Linebackers - I love defense.  Defense is football.  Hard hits is football.  Knocking a guy's block off is football.  Noone does these things like linebackers.  A big hit is felt in the groin.  When you see a linebacker thrash a receiver coming across the middle, the sound that comes out of your body is like no other.  The reaction is more of pain than elation and suddenly that Grinch-ish smile comes across your face.  This is football.  And noone puts linebackers on the field like your Pittsburgh Steelers.  Butkus, Ray Lewis, LT, Singletary, Nitschke - all greats.  All Time Greats.  But let's look at a linebacker lineage in the 'Burgh. Kirkland, Gildon, Greene, Farrior, Porter, Harrison, Merriweather - a small list of what most NFL franchises would love to have as a list of greats.  Now add the names Russell, Lloyd, Ham, and Lambert.

9.  America's Team - The popular belief is that the Dallas Cowboys are the titled "America's Team."  Of course, that moniker has become accepted over time and has become commonplace.  So they are.  But here's the gaff:  The Steelers were initially offered that nickname in 1978.  As the story goes, Art Rooney was told by NFL Films that they would use that term as an opening to a story on the Steelers.  Rooney simply said "we're not America's team, we're Pittsburgh's team," and thus the name went to Dallas.  Telling on many levels and this fact alone can be enough to make any fan envious of Steeler Nation.

8.  How To Access Games - Arriving at a game in Pittsburgh is a special thing.  Although sitting at the foot of Duquesne University, Consol Energy Center is not a majorly appealing structure - unless you consider the Epiphany Catholic Church sitting at its doorstep.  The beautiful thing about the structures that house Pittsburgh's pro sports teams is the way they fit into their atmospheres.  At the banks of the Allegheny are PNC Park and Heinz Field.  Access to these parks is available by bridge, by rail, and by water.  And if you come down from Mount Washington or want to stay on another side of town, you can take the Gateway Clipper from Station Square.

If you want to take one of Pittsburgh's many bridges that lead to the waterfront, they close them so you can walk there.  *  As a sidenote, Pittsburgh is not called the City of Bridges for nothing.  The sight of thousands of fans marching across the Clemente Bridge is one that never leaves your mind.  Nor should it.

A walk along the waterfront from Heinz Field to PNC Park is deserving of a sightseeing tax.  Across the Allegheny is Point State Park where locals hang out and enjoy events held at the park, picnic, boat, and fish. Point State Park is a skyline defining structure that was once fed by natural waters (recently turned over to chlorinated city water) and shoots refreshing H2O high enough into the air that they had to invest in a meter that turns the pressure down in high winds because it was hitting buildings blocks away!

The T Rail System drops fans off at the doorstep of both PNC Park and Heinz Field and (you ready for this?) it's FREE.  Railing through the entirety of downtown Pittsburgh is on the house and it is the cleanest subway I've ever been on.  Taking the train from Steel Tower to North Shore to see a Pirates Playoff game recently was one of the most thrilling experiences I've ever had as a fan.  Polite, patient, and a voice of one - the Buccos loyal were a raucous group of ladies and gentlemen.

7.  PNC Park -  There is little to dispute that PNC is the best park in baseball.  It is regularly cited as being so, and one trip to PNC removes any question.  Best stadium in sports?  Show me a better one.  Soldier Field, Lambeau, Dodger Stadium, sure they have more history.  But take away the aura of longevity and they are really just crumbling relics of different times.  PNC is a park for the ages.

PNC sinks into the landscape in a way that suggests it was not built into the city, but the city was built into it. The view of the Pittsburgh skyline in the outfield is just the beginning.  Once inside the stadium, there are the requisite food items, beer, sodas, etc.  This is where the similarities of PNC and other stadiums end.  Touring this facility, you get the feeling that the designer wanted to build the inside of Harry Potter's Hogwarts Dorm as much as a baseball stadium.  The mix of steel and terra cotta gives a steampunk feel to the stadium. Functional staircases, hidden seating options, and standing only bleachers make for endless viewing possibilities.  No matter where you sit, there are great viewing options.  This is due partly to the construction which allows no viewer to be more than 88 feet from the field.  And being the second smallest ballpark in the majors, you get as intimate of feeling as possible in a stadium with thousands of fans waving terrible towels and Jolly Rogers.      

6.  The Airport - An airport?  Yep.  Here's why.  Name me another airport in the country that has two statues upon entering - one of the Father of Our Country George Washington and next to him a statue of a sports star who retired 30 years prior.  Guess who gets 4 out of 5 pictures taken with travelers posing next to him.  That's right - The Paison.

5.  Unity With Town - More than half of the people you come across in Pittsburgh is in sports gear.  I'm talking Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Jesus' birthday, my birthday, every day.  And I'm not talking about your average middle aged male. Women, kids, students, the elderly, the homeless, the CEO and the Street Sweeper are all wearing their colors every minute of every day.

And the local stars are not stars.  Hines Ward was not a sports hero in Pittsburgh - he was a member of your family. Pittsburghers don't talk about Mario Lemieux, Cutch, and Bradshaw like they're god-like figures.  They just melt into the town.  Dan Bylsma just ran the Lemieux 6.6k and blended in with everyone else.  Cutch sat in the seats for Penguins Game 2 next to some folks who just sat and chatted with him like he was an old friend.  We spoke to a tour guide who had just had Heath Miller on his tour and he didn't bring a crew with security, he came with his family and sat amongst the people.

The people of Pittsburgh don't go to the game because it is fashionable like in Miami, New York, or L.A. They go to the game because it is simply a part of their lives.  They go because their family always has, because they want their kids to be part of it, because it is as normal as going home.  

Stop a guy on the street.  Ask him who the first line center is for the Pens, who plays left for the Buccos, or who the starting running back is for the Steelers. I defy you to find someone who can't answer these questions.        

4.  Pro Football Hall of Fame - Wait.  Isn't it located in Canton, Ohio?  Well, that's what geography tells you.  But let's face it - that building belongs in Pittsburgh.  Give me a post-merger All-Pro Team from Canton and let's see if it does not look like Steel City.  Let's look at the highlight films from those players, narrated by John Facenda, and the NFL we want is defined by these players.  Mean Joe, Mel Blount, and the incomparable Rod Woodson were destruction on the field.  Rules were changed to slow these guys down because noone could compete.  They were the Wilt Chamberlains of their time.  We could have won World War II quicker had we sent this collection of beasts.  The HOF is full not only of Steelers players, but of individual plays they've made, and all of them are recognizable as plays we see over and over and over again to promote the game of football.

3.  Unity On The Field - In case you haven't noticed, the Steelers, Penguins, and Pirates all carry the same colors.  The inimitable Black and Gold.  The term Black and Gold is so owned by the town that they even redefine what the color gold is.  Johnny-Come-Latelies try to come around and claim to have black and gold uniforms, but they can never grasp the concept that their version of what is gold is not really gold in the sports world.  Gold IS Pittsburgh gold.

And a little history lesson on the idea.  The city's founder is accepted as William Pitt The Elder, also known as The Great Commoner.  William Pitt was known for being popular among the people and for his fierce opposition to government corruption.  He also apparently had a single-minded vision to attack and defeat France. Sounds like a saucy fella.  A fella that fits Pittsburgh well.

The Pitt family seal is black and gold and blue.  Blue is significant in sports because it was the original primary color and current third jersey color for the Penguins.  It is also the other dominant color of the uniforms of the University or Pittsburgh.  Aaaaaaah.  It all comes together.  Now THAT'S unity.

Of course, New York's Islanders, Knicks, and Mets all share the same colors as well.  In their case, not as impressive.  For one, they are just a few teams in New York, many of which do not have unified colors. Second, we're talking about the Mets, Knicks, and Islanders - these guys are more punch lines than teams.

2.  Mario Lemieux - He's Canadian.  His name translates simply to "the best."  Should be a 'nuff said situation were it a lesser man.  This guy deserves recognition among the masses and here's why.  Never mind the fact that he's arguably the greatest hockey player of all time with the only peer being the Great One Wayne Gretzky.  So we'll gloss over his hockey stats, all of which are well-known. Here are some fast facts:  scored a goal the first time he ever touched the puck in the NHL, won the Hart trophy and scoring title in 1995-96 after sitting out a year with Hodgkin's Lymphoma, he was inducted directly into the Hall of Fame following his retirement (the league decided to forego the 3-year waiting period) and he was called "the most talented player I've ever seen" by Bobby Orr.   It is the man Mario Lemieux that is actually more inspiring. The man's impact on the city of Pittsburgh rivals that of any single person's impact on any city since Nero's impact on Rome.

Lemieux saved the Penguins franchise twice.  The team was in danger of bankruptcy when he joined the team and he turned the entire franchise around.  Once he retired and the team was in financial woes again, he bought the team and guaranteed their success moving forward.  He is a full-time figure in Pittsburgh, holding constant charity events and helping to fund further medical advances in cancer treatment.  His foundation has built the Mario Lemieux Center for Blood Cancers,   gave a five million dollar gift to the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center and a two million dollar gift to the Children's Home of Pittsburgh.

Playing through considerable pain may seem like a large task, but playing at that level is seemingly an impossibility.  If you could give one example that best illustrates Mario's greatness, here's my favorite (verbiage stolen from Wikipedia): "On Decemebr 23, 2002, during hsi afternoon radio show in Pittsburgh, host Mark Madden siad he would donate $6,600 to the Mario Lemiex Foundation if the hockey great ever scored off a faceoff.  That very night, the Penguins played the Buffalo Sabres in Pittsburgh and Lemieux, who was aware of the challenge, made good o nit when he scored the game-winning goal right off a faceoff during the third period."

1.  The Rooney Family - The first family of football.  The first family of sports.  The Rooney family has owned the Steelers since their inception in 1933.  They have been the most consistent ownership in football.  A quote from Howard Cosell in 1982 says it all:  "The Rooneys are the finest people, the people I respect most in American sports ownership.  I've always felt that way.  And there's no reason to change.  They are people of integrity and character.  The way they put the Steelers together, to hire a man like Chuck Noll, to emphasize the team concept.  I have a whole transcendental feeling for the Steelers and the Rooneys in Pittsburgh."

Dan Rooney is "of the people."  Founder Art Rooney's son, he is a former ambassador to Ireland.  His approach to equality in the NFL in hiring minority coaches, now known as the "Rooney Rule" has been transformative on the game.  They have hired 3 coaches since 1969, all of which have won Super Bowls.  He is known to walk around Pittsburgh meeting the locals and discussing football with the people on the streets.  Story has it he lives in a two story brick house with a small porch not far from the stadium.  He walks to the games and travels with the team.  Private jets, inaccessible living quarters?  No.  Just an average guy.  An average guy whose bust is in the Hall of Fame, sports 6 Super Bowl Rings, and owns one of the most valuable franchises in sports.  Check out the following story in the New York Times:

 http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/27/sports/football/27rooney.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0

By comparison, the transition of ownership from Art Rooney, Dan Rooney, and Art Rooney II hardly looks like that of the Steinbrenner or Buss families.  Look at the train wrecks of power, greed, and arrogance that has made those franchises shells of what they were when the George or Jerry owned them.  Then look at the seamless transition of ownership that has spanned 80 years in Pittsburgh.  This is a family to look up to, to admire, and to be treated as royalty in the city of Pittsburgh (although Dan would never have it).

In Conclusion - As I sit and type, I wait for the Buccos season to either end tonight in Game 5 against the Cardinals or continue versus the Dodgers of Los Angeles.  I can rest easy either way knowing that although the Penguins got knocked out of the playoffs prematurely last year, the Steelers are inexplicably 0-4, and the Pirates are in St. Louis for the final game of this series, my teams will be back on top.  We have the leadership, the support of the people, and most importantly, a history of success behind us.  Pittsburgh knows how to win, and we know that knowing how to win is a skill not every culture has.

The city of Pittsburgh has not only the best collective fan base in sports, but a solid guarantee from all parties involved that the teams will be around for a long, long time.  This relationship does not exist across the board in any other sports town.  Pittsburgh is Sports Town U.S.A.

     

A Stop in for Some Gizzards

I grew up with fried chicken.  Fried chicken, greens of all sorts, black-eye peas, cornbread (not the sweet stuff), the nine.  Wash it down to the world's sweetest tea, and how I didn't spend my childhood obese is a mystery.  For this reason, when I see a mom and pop stand open up that caters to the southern cookin' crowd, I get very excited.  And the smaller the better.

So, when I saw D.D.s open up on New York Avenue where Sweet Melissa's used to be, I got really excited.  Sweet Melissa's was a place I hated to see leave because the food rocked and I loved the atmosphere.  Replacing it ain't easy.  Add to that, when you put a sign out that says "Best Gizzards and Livers in Town" you had better bring it.  

I mentioned to Mr. Rob the previous night that I had been dying to hit up some gizzards and to my surprise, he enjoys the gizzards too.  So we decided to hit D.D.s about 11:00 the next day.

Arriving at 10:50, they were just finishing getting set up and we were greeted by a fella behind the window, who introduced himself as Milton.  Very nice guy and he has that home-townie feeling that makes you feel comfortable, as if you're eating at his house.  Exactly what I was hoping for and already a great sign.  I ordered a 2 piece dark meat with 1/2 pound of gizzards, collards and green beans on the side.  Rob got the 2 piece white meat with 1/2 pound of livers, and ordered the same sides as I did.

First, I will say, the greens are not the filled with pork, dripping in fat variety that I am used to.  In fact, I couldn't find any meat in there at all.  The flavour was great though.  Very sweet compared to what I'm used to and something I will definitely be ordering again.  Green beans were good as well.

The 2 piece dark meat was fantastic.  A thin floury crust fried fresh as we were sitting there (don't go if you're in a hurry) and really tender meat.  The meat was also reminiscent of fresh-killed chicken, not the bleached clean type you find at fast food joints.  Not sure if I am right in this assumption, but I dig it.

Gizzards?  Phenom.  Flaky crust, nice and chewy.  Not tough or overcooked, however.  Perfect for what your asking for.  Gizzards are not for everyone.  Kind of a poor man's fried clam, but way better in my opinion.  Rob wouldn't let me have any of his livers, so I guess I'm outta luck there.

For my money, I love this southern food and the people who make it.  Great roadside atmosphere and very reasonable prices.  I'll certainly be back many times and I encourage anyone who has been curious about D.D.s to stop in.  Cheers!

The Renegade Reps Hookah Charity

It is a strong feeling that I have that any business should be accompanied by a cause that is strictly for good, for the betterment of someone else.  The influence and wide net cast by conducting business just presents too many great opportunities to do so that it is a shame to allow it to pass.  Thus, ever since the Renegade Reps Hookah venture has come to be, I have been trying to find a charitable cause that would best represent what we do and get the most bang for the recipient's buck.  It was on this great trip to Egypt that I ran across that opportunity.

The opportunity that we found was the Abu Elhagag Festival, an annual event that brings in peoples from all surrounding areas to experience community, music, dances, horse races, and a parade through the streets.  What struck me most about the event was a giant tent that was constructed for travelers.  Within this tent, those who do not have enough for lodging are free to stay, while the local families bring food for them to eat.  This assures that every person, whether poor or rich, can experience the festival.

A fascinating story of Abu Elhagag himself and the mosque (see above) that bears his name can be found by following this link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abu_Haggag_Mosque.  As you can see, the mosque (which was initially a church) was accidentally built atop the ruins of the Luxor Temple.  Due to this, the mosque appears embedded inside the ruins.

What made the idea for this cause tip for me was when a wagon full of kids pulled up and my brother had suggested that we buy them all hats from one of the local vendors.  We did and the kids were happy.  The most affecting part was seeing the thankfulness in the father when he came over to give us his blessing.  It didn't break the bank for us, but it clarified for me how appreciative the locals are for what they have.

So, we came up with this idea:  Just raise money and just give it to the poor in Luxor.  A very simple idea, but the gaff is in the simplicity.  This way, we can make sure that 100% of every dime donated can get directly into the hands of the poor.  It's that easy.  We will be there to provide, hand-to-hand, the funds we raise here in the States.

And here is how we're gonna raise the money:

I am finding select locations every week to rent hookahs out to the public.  Instead of paying for rental, we will simply take a donation for the cause.  The cause, which we are going to call Elhagag Festival Fundraiser, will be posted on Facebook each week where we will be and at what times.  As stated before, EVERY PENNY will go directly into the hands of the poor.  ALL COSTS associated will be absorbed by Renegade Reps.  It's a no-lose situation.

And the benefit is two-fold.  If anyone has been curious about smoking hookah, but is afraid of the general cost of rental or purchase, you can rent one at a cost that you feel comfortable with.  This way, you can see if you love the world of hookah or if it is just not for you.

If you'd like more information and would like to keep up with where we will be, just LIKE the Renegade Reps Hookah Facebook page and watch for updates.  Cheers!



 

Another Trip to Luxor - Part 2

After a delightful night of smoking some double apple on the eternal Nile River and spending some quality time with my brother, it was time to get moving on to being tourists.

Ahmed and our guide, Tamer Ibrahim picked us up at 10:00 am and we got underway to the West Bank.  Today was a day for the Valley of the Workers and some other sights unseen.  This trip was more for relaxing and conducting a little business than adventure.  We got more than we bargained for (always a good thing) and ended up shopping for real estate, smoking something I had not smoked before (!),  getting some hands-on experience restoring an ancient tomb, and attending an ancient festival!

Our prescribed trip would take us to a few burial sites at Deir El Medina and to Medinet Habu, the second largest Temple in Luxor (behind the Karnak Temple).  Both sites were heart-stirring in their own right.  However, the highlight of the tombs and temples was an opportunity to grasp a piece of history itself.

While inside one of the tombs at Deir El Medina, we came across one of the workers carefully washing one of the uncleared paintings.  A very time-consuming and scary job (considering the consequences of messing up), it takes a great deal of patience and a steady hand.  We spoke to the worker, in whatever broken languages we could, and asked if we could take a picture.  Usually,the workers don't mind and will generally ask for a little "baksheesh," a gift for time or effort.  usually a 5 L.E. spot will do.  Being that noone was around (severe lack of tourism), the worker asked me if I wanted to grab a brush and help out.  Are you kidding?  I would PAY to be able to do this for a day or two.  To actually get to work on uncovering a tomb of this type is a dream every kid who watched Indiana Jones!  Not that I would be opening the Ark of the Covenant  (as it turns out I'm glad about that), but just to be a minuscule part of doing this work is an honour at least.  I got a blurry picture of me doing the work (see right) and I will cherish that shot forever. 

Our next stop was for a cold beverage.  When I say it's hot out there, it's because my vocabulary is too limited to find descriptors that are appropriate to describe the level of heat the desert provides.  This is the kind of heat that melts tires on cars.  If I had the guts to wear my galibeya in front of these guys, you can bet I'd have it on (small fear of insulting them, but I'm getting over it).         

Ahmed knew of a small cafe near Medinet Habu, and I have to say, it was just as the doctor ordered.  A true oasis in the middle of the desert, this cafe was inexplicably surrounded by palm trees and shade that dropped the temperature by seemingly 40 degrees.  

We dropped Ahmed and my brother off at the cafe to tour the ruins of Medinet Habu.  Had I not visited the Temple at Karnak on the last trip, this experience would surely be transcendent.  This is a BIG temple.  From the front of the temple, you can see all the way to the back.  There is an upward sloping floor with the walls and ceiling moving slowly inward.  If you can imagine a pyramid turned on its side, this is what you would see.  On each side there are rooms dedicated to each of the gods.      The imagery is of war and victories, mostly of Rameses III.  I don't think a one-time visit to Luxor would be full without seeing this temple, especially since it is on the West Bank.  

When we were finished touring the temple, it was time to hit the cafe for a Coke Light, a Turkish coffee, and some sheesha.  I say Coke Light because they do not have Diet Coke in Egypt.  What they have is the saccharine-laden Coke that was outlawed in the states.  I definitely do not like this type as much, but a cold one is refreshing in the heat.  

The Turkish Coffee has become a requirement for me for some reason when I'm over here.  Not sure why, but I get a craving for it in this heat.  When I sat for my sheesha, I was surprised to find that they did not have (my preference) the flavored varieties, nor did they carry the elusive Tombac.  What they did have, and what I have come to find is the most popular type among the locals, is what they refer to as Salloum.  The unflavored tobacco would make you think of as a cross between Tombac and the sheesha we are used to seeing.  Wet and sticky, it burns like the flaovred sheesha we smoke, but tastes much like a cigar.  You get the real tobacco flavor from it and I can definitely understand the draw.  Very nice, but very strong.  I am bringing back a few bags to the states to share around.  

The Salloum is what we have now continued to see throughout Luxor, and we had a great time at the Nubian Cafe explaining to them that we were not real men, but instead wanted some Double Apple and Mango.  The ribbing has been light enough to make it worth it for us in the more "womanly" vein.

When we finished at the cafe, we asked if we could go out and take a look at some of the local agriculture.  I love the sugar cane from here, but had no idea that bananas were such a large part of their production.  We saw banana trees for miles and as you can see by the picture of the trees, they were packed with bananas.  It's still incredible to see so much green produced from just one river.  Flying into the area gives you the sense of how influential the Nile is on this area.  If you fly into Luxor, do not go to sleep.  It is a lesson from the air.

We got to talking about the cost of some flats in the West Bank of the Nile and as it turns out, we were able to take some time out of our day and actually see some flats that are for sale.

The purchasing here is a little different.  If you buy into a new spot, they are entirely custom, so the builder completes the work by your design.  Of course, the closer to the Nile, the more expensive it gets, but very reasonable even as close as possible (you can only get so close because the flood plains belong to the people to farm).

When we finished the day, we headed back to the East Bank to grab some foodstuffs and check out a festival that has got me really thinking about putting something great together for the people of Luxor.  The festival is called the Mulid of Shaykh Yusuf Abu el-Haggag and it brings travelers from all around Luxor to the area to share in family, history, and giving to the poor.  Up next, I will explain the event and give some ideas on what we were discussing to help out.  Cheers!

The Cafe For One Last Round of Tombac

Made my last trip to the cafe that Magdy introduced me to.  My last shot at smoking some Tombac before I go home.  I've spoken of this cafe before, but I felt compelled tonight to expand on it.  It's just that special.  Why?  Well, of course it is only one of a handful of places that sell Tombac in Cairo.  But there is more than that.  This is the old school men's club.  The type of place that brings to mind The Cab Stand in Goodfella's or The Chez Bippy in A Bronx Tale.

You will not find any females at the cafe and I don't think any local women mind.  There is but one toilet which in about 25 square feet and faces out to the rest of the room.  There is a glass window and everyone in the place receives a great view of you doing your business.

What you will find is the local power play.  Lawyers, business owners, artisans, doctors, etc. such all show up here.  You can conduct all of the business you need right there on the stoop.  And everyone knows everyone.  Not only do they know each other, but many of the friendships go back 30 years or more.  The banter that runs between them, although I can;t understand a word of it, is hilarious in method-acting.  When you find yourself laughing comfortably at people when they could possibly be talking smack about you is somewhat liberating.

For my experience, they are all very welcoming and extremely curious about the American that Magdy brought to the cafe.  I have had a variety of conversations including the current political climate in both countries, the history of every Mediterranean country, the role of children in Egypt, you name it.

When each of the "members" pull up in their vehicles, orders are barked out to make rules, other cars are rearranged to make room, and seats are moved around to accommodate before he even gets out of the car.  Some of the fellas even have their own personal pipes to smoke from.

The owner of the cafe is third generation.  He has had several cash offers for very large sums of money and will not sell, citing the history of the cafe being too important to him.

To start, it is always a cup of the best Turkish Coffee I've found accompanied by the Tombac.  When the coffee is gone, it's on to fresh squeezed orange juice followed by a very sweet Hibiscus Tea (served cold).  This trip was a little different as we stayed for four hours, longer than our usual trip.  This time we tacked on a mucho bueno Anise Tea (served hot) with fresh mint that knocked my socks off.  Both the anise and the mint were very faint (that's a good thing) and I couldn't keep my nose from the glass.  

One thing I cannot get my eyes off on each of my visits is the device that is used to heat the coals.  A massive piece of steel, the heat coming from it is immense.  Although it is a tabletop piece, you get the impression of the washing machine in Home Alone that taunts Kevin when he sees it.  A device from the pages of The Divine Comedy if you will.

Each of the wait staff have their  own personalities.  And these are huge personalities.  Once again, although I do not speak Arabic, I can understand every one of their conversations based on their hand movements, eye glances, and natural smiles.  They love having their picture taken and at each visit I am ripe with images upon departure.

In all, although I personally prefer my sheesha flavored (and would not even mention this fact to anyone within a mile of the cafe), this particular spot and the Tombac we smoke will have a special place in my heart.  I am confident that I will be here on a subsequent trip and I'm already looking forward to it.  And if anyone is curious about going to this place and will be in Cairo, I'm sure Magdy would be more than happy to take you and introduce you around.  Cheers!